![]() You could try to get by with a PoE injector and a standard ethernet switch (or the switch built into your router or broadband gateway), but Powershades recommends using a purpose-built PoE switch. What you will need is a PoE switch to inject voltage into the cable. If the installer is covering the roller with a valance or a curtain, on the other hand, that should cover the LED. ![]() If you buy these shades, have the dealer rotate the motor so that the LED faces the wall and is out of your line of sight. The manufacturer tells me the flashes are used for status reports and troubleshooting purposes, but the end user shouldn’t need to be concerned about that. You might find the multi-colored LED on the motor side of the roller to be annoying, as it constantly flashes red and green. Since I didn’t have any ethernet cables terminated in female RJ45 jacks, I stuck an RJ45 coupler on the stub cable, plugged a longer ethernet cable into that, and left it trailing down the side of the window frame. I didn’t even go to that much trouble for this evaluation. For a more polished look, you’ll want to install a plate with a female RJ45 jack in the window frame, but all you really need to do is drill a hole large enough for the RJ45 jack on the shade’s stub cable to pass through. Since it’s DC power, you don’t need an AC adapter to power the shade’s motor. Should you need to cover more distance than that, a secondary power source can be provided mid-span. PoE is a low-voltage tech, so anyone can string an ethernet cable from your router to your window (the cable can be up to 100 meters long). Michael Brown / IDGĪ stub ethernet cable emerges from the end of the shade’s roller, where the motor is located. Installing an outlet there means hiring a licensed electrician to do the work, after which you’ll need to hide a bulky AC adapter. The Graber and Lutron products do offer the option of operating on AC power, but it’s highly unlikely that you have AC outlets in the heads (the top horizontal strip) of your window frames.
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